Done and done. New MacBook LCD screen is in, all seems well and good (tested mic, speakers, iSight, brightness, lid open/close responses, etc.), and I’m really, really happy with the new screen.

Apple wanted $800.00 to replace the screen on my out-of-warranty MacBook (late 2006). Obviously, the person telling me this couldn’t hold a straight face. Duh. iFixit wanted $125 for a new screen. They could also handle the replacement for me if I were so inclined for another $65 or so. I can’t remember the exact dollar amount, but it wasn’t half bad and they’re a great little company.

Then I found other companies that would do replacements for around $150, screen included. Of course, I would have to send out my laptop for them to do that, which is something I’m very uncomfortable with. Finally, I found an IRESQ.com eBay auction selling brand new, 1-year warranty replacement LCDs for $70 (shipping and tax included). I couldn’t pass it up.

Initially, I had budgeted several hours for this process, as I planned on removing the top case fully according to the iFixit process. Then I found out from the venerable Rebecca K. of smalldogelectronics that with a neat little trick I could do the whole thing without removing the top case. I figured that in the worst case scenario I would get to the point of trying to seat the inverter cable and if I couldn’t I would simply move to a full disassembly. Fortunately, everything worked out like a charm.

Here are my pics from the process. There are a few things you should note. First, it was really important to me to keep good track of everything. Using my #000 Phillips (everywhere else says #00, but that’s nonsense — go with a #000 for this non-top case variation), I removed all my screws and placed them on a white sheet of paper in small groups. I then sectioned off each group and marked what they belonged to. I tend to do this with all repairs.

Second, I wanted to practice reseating the inverter cable with the OLD LCD before going at it with the new one. That’s why you see a photo of me testing the backlight and video with the cracked screen. Once I got the hang of it, I was ready to go. One thing you should keep in mind is that the inverter board tends to move with the screen, so it isn’t entirely flat. If you approach the clutch cover from the side of the laptop (where the DVD drive is), you can kind-a-sort-a see what you’re aiming for. I did my best to photograph this.

Third, see the MSI Wind in the background? That was my ongoing resource in case I ran into any trouble. Even though I wasn’t following them for the purposes of this repair, I really did a thorough reading of the iFixit guide simply so I knew what was where. In fact, since you’re essentially seating the inverter cable blind, it gave me a good feel for what was going on ‘neath the shroud.

Fourth, above all else, the biggest pain in the ass was replacing the bezel strip. This is due primarily to those little clips that everyone seems to complain about. They break, they fall, they cause gaps — ugh, whoever invented those, let’s just say I have mixed feelings about you.

Finally, notice the screenshot at the end of the gallery. It’s a nice, bright beauty! According to Apple, I saved myself $730. According to reality, I saved about $50. Either way, I’m thrilled to have done this.

Disclaimer: This is NOT a repair guide, nor am I making myself available for any questions. I’m inclined toward these things, and if you are too, feel free to give it a try, but at your own risk and research. Just take your time, discharge your static electricity (better yet, wear a wristband), keep track of your screws, tools and parts, and bask in your cleverness. Best of luck.